second verse

slightly different than the first.

IMG_0232 (1024x768)Second set of sandal socks from the same skein of Cascade Yarns Cherub Aran.  This pair weighs 37grams, vs 35 due to the difference in toe and ankle.  That first pair (below) are probably easier to describe HOW TO:

IMG_0231 (1024x768)First, there are a lot of different patterns for Sandal socks on the web, as well as for plain old socks.  It would help if you’ve already knit socks, and if you have a favorite pattern, you will see how easy it is to adapt.

Have a couple of problems with knitting socks: first, find it difficult to knit on anything smaller than #5 needles, preferring #6 and up – so I’m using Sport weight and worsted weight yarns a lot.  Secondly, tend to use the odd yarns that I find in the thrift shops, rather than sock yarns.  This Cherub Aran is a 55% nylon, 45% acrylic blend which should make it suitable for socks plus it is nice and soft. Otherwise, reinforcing the toes and heel is recommended.

The other issue with socks is figuring out the NEGATIVE ease necessary, and that will vary with the type of yarn.  Negative ease means that you want to make your socks SMALLER than your actual foot measurement because they will stretch – the nature of the knit stitch – and you don’t want them to get all loose and bunched up in your shoes.  So you need to make them smaller.  As an example, the actual measurement around the ankle part of my foot is 11”, but I’ve knit these with an actual measurement of 6”: 6 stitches/inch – a total of 36 stitches.  yet, obviously they fit fine (socks #2).  The first pair I did at 32 stitches, and they were a little snug getting over the heel.

My preferred way of doing socks is magic loop.  Did not think anything would take me away from DPNs, but magic loop is great.  Of course, using two circular needles would also work well – and if you are really good and can do two socks at a time, go for it!

KNOW YOUR GAUGE!  so you can figure out how stretchy the yarn will be and decide how many stitches you want to cast on and how long you will make the foot.  This yarn was stretchier width wise than length wise.

Cast on by your favorite method – these socks were done with a knitted cast on.  Then knit three rows in a K1P1 rib, splitting the stitches on the third row. The front stitches are held, while the back stitches become the heel.  The fourth row starts the heel – I use {slip 1 pw, k1}*  for the right side, and purl across for the wrong side.  usually, knit as many rows as you have stitches; 18 stitches is 18 rows.  turn heel with short rows, then pick up for side gussets and do usual sock pattern until you reach the foot and knit to 1” to 1/2” shy of the ball of your foot – depending on how stretchy the yarn is.  Then switch to two rows of k1p1 rib and bind off with the same tension as you have knit.  I like the look of a purl b/o. 

With sandal socks you have a distinct right and left foot.  after b/o try on socks and mark where your big toe sits.  using a crochet hook, crochet about an inch, back and forth 3 times to secure the front part of the sock and keep it from riding back in a bunch around your instep.

Verse two, bound off for the big toe and then continued in pattern for three more rows (adding an inch of stitches between front and back between the toes), then b/o.  This will leave me without something extra pressing into the foot if wearing something like flip flops which already have something there.

both of these from a 100g skein, and there is yarn left over.

Next project is to make some swatches with some lace patterns for future use.  Used one in the sweater (another sweater on May 18), and have found some others that might be nice in socks as well as for sweaters.  latest issue of Interweave press Knitting – PLUS a very interesting variation on SOCKS!

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